You've made up your mind: you want a new pair of boots, and you want them in quality leather — the kind that lasts. You've already picked the style you're after — maybe a pair of cowboy boots — but one question remains: smooth leather or suede?
Choosing the material for a good handcrafted boot is definitely a matter of taste — but not only that.
Leather and suede boots tell two different stories, give you different sensations and, not least, call for different kinds of care.
There's no single "better" material. There's the one that's right for you — for how you live in your boots, where you take them and which season you wear them most.
In this guide, we'll help you work out which way to go!
- Smooth leather or suede: the difference comes down to how they're made
- Leather or suede boots: two different characters for your outfits
- Are leather or suede boots more comfortable?
- Which boots should you choose for each season?
- Caring for leather and suede boots
- So… leather or suede boots?
Smooth leather or suede: the difference comes down to how they're made
Let's start by saying that the difference between the two materials lies in which part of the hide is used.
Smooth leather uses the outer layer, the most compact and hard-wearing part: smooth leather boots have that neat, slightly glossy surface, and that "sturdy" character you can feel to the touch.
Suede, on the other hand, comes from the inner part of the hide, worked until it takes on that soft, velvety surface you recognise straight away: it's warm, matte and lovely to touch, though also more delicate (but a good care routine is all it takes to keep it looking perfect over time).
So when we say "suede" we're talking about how it's made, not about a particular animal. True chamois suede is extremely rare: what you wear on your cowboy boots is suede leather, made from more common hides and treated to achieve that velvety finish.
Leather or suede boots: two different characters for your outfits
Choosing between leather and suede means, first and foremost, deciding what tone to give your boot looks. Bold or relaxed, classic or bohemian?
Smooth leather: classic and bold
Smooth leather boots have a structured, polished look and a surface that catches the light boldly. They work beautifully in city looks — both the slightly daring ones and the more understated outfits for formal settings.
Pictured: Shelby Black Cowboy Boots
Suede: soft and relaxed
Suede boots play on a completely different register. The matte, velvety surface softens the light rather than reflecting it, for a warm, soft, effortlessly sophisticated effect. Suede brings a casual touch even to a polished look and is perfect for outfits with a bohemian soul.
Pictured: Dallas Taupe Cowboy Boots
Whichever character you prefer, the beauty of cowboy boots is that you can pair them with just about anything.
Are leather or suede boots more comfortable?
Let's clear up one essential point: when we're talking about quality boots, made with top-grade leathers and crafted with skill, comfort is guaranteed either way.
That said, the two materials do behave a little differently.
Suede, for instance, is the king of instant comfort. Suede boots are soft and supple from day one: they mould to your foot right away, rarely need breaking in and seldom rub or cause any discomfort.
Smooth leather, on the other hand, can ask for a little more patience at first. It's naturally more structured, so in the early wears it can feel firmer. But, day after day, leather boots mould to the shape of your foot, until they become a pair made just for you.
That's why one of the first tips for stretching leather boots that feel tight at first is, quite simply, to wear them.
Which boots should you choose for each season?
Here's an important question: which time of year will you wear your cowboy boots most? Because each material has its favourite seasons.
Suede boots are perfect for summer too
Suede's porous surface makes it more breathable: it lets your foot breathe and avoids that feeling of excess heat. At the same time, it's a material that doesn't get on with rain. This makes suede boots perfect for dry spring and autumn days, and for summer evenings too (you do know cowboy boots are now a summer trend, don't you?).
Smooth leather isn't fazed by bad weather
Smooth leather is your ally when the weather turns. Its compact outer layer acts as a natural shield against rain and mud, so you can wear it with confidence even on grey autumn days and through the colder months.
Caring for leather and suede boots
If you invest in a good pair of handcrafted boots, you want them to last and to stay looking like new.
Leather is certainly less delicate than suede to begin with, but the truth is that a boot's lifespan isn't written so much in the material as in the care you give it.
Smooth leather boots: little care, but consistent
Smooth leather is the easiest to look after. For everyday cleaning, a soft, slightly damp cloth is all you need to remove dust and residue. Every now and then, it needs feeding with a dedicated conditioning cream: this is the step that keeps it supple and bright and stops it drying out over the years. A few minutes now and then, to keep your leather boots looking like new, for a long time.
Suede boots: a little more care, but nothing complicated
Suede asks for a bit more attention, but it's still a simple routine.
You only need a few of the right tools: a soft-bristled brush, always worked in the direction of the nap to revive the surface, and a dedicated suede eraser to lift marks and stains.
The real ally, though, is a waterproofing spray: applied regularly, it creates a protective barrier against water and stains and is the best way to enjoy your suede worry-free.
Read our detailed tips on caring for your suede boots.
Whatever your cowboy boots are made of, our dedicated products - Eco-clean for cleaning and Eco-protector for protection - are designed to make these steps easy while respecting the nature of artisan leather.
So… leather or suede boots?
Whatever you choose, you'll find our leather and suede cowboy boots ready to become your next favourites!